| Days 11 & 12 May 14 & 15, 2003(Wednesday and Thursday)
  We spend these two days leisurely drifting at sea. Okay, we may be drifting, 
  but the boat is hauling keel towards Venice at some 22 knots (they never 
  have told us what kind of knot, but it must be a big one).
  
  We spend a fair amount of time snoozing, reading, and drinking on the decks 
  (mostly in chairs on the deck, but occasionally...).
  
  About noon on Day 11, there's an Ice Sculpting demonstration. This involves 
  taking two Filipino experts from their jobs in the galley, giving each of 
  them a 150 pound block of ice, and telling them to have at it. (We're not 
  sure what their job in the galley involves, but there's been a dearth of 
  ice sculptures on board, so it's not that.)
  
  It takes about half an hour, and by the end, the whole space around them 
  is covered with shaved ice ("Ah! For some lime syrup!" says Robert). One 
  of them carves a an eagle grabbing a fish from a frozen lake, and the other 
  one does a nude kneeling woman (must get lonely down there in the galley).
  
  
                                                     The ice carving demonstration
 
 The end result, a cold beauty...
 
  
   ...and an icy eagle
 
  According to Mr. Commentator, they know what they want to do before they 
  start (in other words, they don't examine the ice to see what figure is inside, 
  waiting to be revealed). But sometimes, something goes wrong, so they have 
  to change what they're doing.
  
  Robert wonders if they ever end up with an ice toothpick....
  
  
 
  Laura wanders off to the beauty parlor on board to get a pedicure. Her toenails 
  look lovely (although Robert thinks it would look cooler if she got them 
  painted green). The beauty parlor also offers all sorts of other treatments, 
  including a "Chakra Hot Rock Treatment" that takes an hour and a half. Presumably, 
  this involves beating you with different colored hot rocks until you think 
  you've gotten $150 worth of it.
  
  
   Whatchoo looking at?
 
  
     Laura admires the results of her pedicure
 
 Laura is pleased
 
  
 
  This is the last formal night on board (there's only been two), so Robert 
  once again dons his kilt (and knives and flask) and we head out to dinner. 
  This time, we have dinner with an actual Scotsman (who's in a tuxedo, but 
  not a kilt, which lends a nicely surrealistic atmosphere to the dinner). 
  We discuss American and British politics ("Our leader is dumber than yours!" 
  "Is not!").
  
  
   Robert ready to go out and wow the peasants
 
  
     Laura and the Mediterranean
 
  Robert has caviar and a couple of lobster tails, but is still disappointed 
  that we haven't had any flaming desserts. Stephen, our Spanish waiter, offers 
  to set any of the other desserts on fire just for Robert.
  
  
 
  We try to sit through the Broadway Review. We really do. But they have managed 
  to take Broadway songs (which are full of emotion) and make them sound 
  like Musak, while people caper about on the stage.
  
  One thing we notice about the entertainment is that none of it is 
  local (like, say, Europe). It's all American music (except for the Bahamanian 
  guys, but they mostly play songs like "Layla" with a Calypso beat). Even 
  the Mexican restaurant has a couple of Americans doing insipid arrangements 
  of Country Western tunes. Why not a Mariachi band?
  
  Shoot, why not some Greek music? Turkish belly dancing? Spanish music? Italian 
  music? It's not like America is the only country with musicians. And you 
  could probably get an Italian band cheap (couple of bottles of Chianti and 
  they're playing all night).
  
  There's one jazz quartet that's pretty good (interestingly enough, none of 
  them are American, although they play only American music).
  
  On the other hand, there's a lot of Russians/Slavs on board, so at least 
  for them, this is pretty exotic music.
  
  
 
  Starting at about 11:30 pm until midnight, two of the head waiters build 
  a champagne waterfall. This is a whole mess of glasses stacked on top of 
  each other in a pyramid. At the very tippy top is one glass. Theoretically, 
  you pour champagne into the top glass and it flows out to fill all the other 
  glasses. (We didn't get to find out, because after pouring a bottle, they 
  opened a concession stand to sell pictures of people pouring champagne into 
  one side of the pyramid. At $20 a pop, there was still a pretty good line 
  of suckers willing to pay for the privilege.)
  
  Robert thinks that there must be a pretty interesting curriculum at cooking 
  school: Ice Cube carving (you can't start them off on blocks, after all), 
  Glass Stacking, How to Deal with Americans Complaining About the Salty Taste 
  of the Caviar.
  
  
 
  Tonight the clocks get set back an hour on board the ship. So tomorrow, we'll have 
  boat lag....
  
  
 
  The second day at sea is, if possible, even lazier than the first day, although 
  Laura springs into action and visits the laundromat to provide enough clean 
  clothes to get us back to the USA.
  
  Robert watches a James Bond movie on the TV (his plot summary: "There's a 
  bang, then a whoom! Smash! Zoom! James goes "Bond, James Bond" and then Crash! 
  Kaboom! Zam! Halle Barry! Woohoo! Kabloomey! Zap! Lasers! and then at the 
  end, Zoom! Smasho! Crasho! Kapow!")
  
  
 
  Tomorrow we pull into Venice (Italy), which is our last port of call, so 
  with fingers crossed, it looks like we got past the hard part of the trip....
  
  
   Robert & LauraAlmost at Venice
 
  P.S. Fr. Steve would like us to point out that even in the 21st century, 
  you can end up with a pretty nasty hex if you kill a clergyperson, or even 
  mess with one. Consider yourselves warned. 
  
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